Collection: Solubilisers

Solubilisers are ingredients group closely related to surfactants and emulsifiers. In simple terms, they’re used to help other ingredients disperse and dissolve in a liquid - particularly oil in water. 

On a molecular level, these ingredients boast both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties - which, collectively, allow them to bridge the gap between oil and water - creating smooth formulas where separation would normally take place. Whilst they’re completely water soluble, solubilisers can only combine small amounts of water with oil, making them the perfect choice for formulas requiring only tiny drops of oil-based ingredients like essential oils. 

You’ll often see them in recipes requiring an oil-in-water mix including toners and sprays, or in products such as body or foot scrubs (helping them wash off more easily).

The cosmetics world has plenty of solubilisers to offer - some natural, and some not. Be sure to review each and every option available for suitability before making your final choice! 

In some circumstances, a more synthetic option is the way to go. Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 are both commonly used as solubilisers and emulsifiers in cosmetic and personal care formulations. While they do originate from natural sources, they undergo chemical modifications, which is why they aren't considered 100% natural.

Both start from sorbitol, a sugar alcohol derived from fruit.This sorbitol is then ethoxylated, meaning it undergoes a chemical reaction with ethylene oxide. The resultant compound is then reacted with lauric acid (for Polysorbate 20) or oleic acid (for Polysorbate 80) to produce the final product.

Because of the introduction of ethylene oxide and the various chemical reactions involved, even though they start from a natural ingredient, Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 are often viewed as synthetic or semi-synthetic compounds in the cosmetic world.

It's up to you to decide what type of solubiliser to use in your recipes - however, some are more suited to certain uses than others. Be sure to do your research before making your choice! 

The best solubiliser for a bath bomb mainly depends on the specific ingredients used, and the desired result. With this being said, Polysorbate 80 is a popular choice across the board. 

Thanks to its strong ability to disperse oils, fragrances, and pigments such as mica in water (therefore helping prevent uneven distribution and stains on the bath), Polysorbate 80 is considered by many of our customers to be one of the best bath bomb solubilising options out there. 

Choosing a solubiliser? It’s always a good idea to test your purchases in small batches to find what works best for your particular formula and desired result.

Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 are both solubilising agents, meaning they can be used to help dissolve oil-based ingredients in water-based solutions. They’re commonly found in formulas for lotions, shampoos, body washes, fragrance sprays, and facial toners working to either evenly distribute essential oils or lipophilic ingredients. 

Both are derived from sorbitan, which is produced from naturally occurring sugar alcohols.

In addition to being solubilisers, these polysorbate variants can also act as emulsifiers, making them a brilliant addition to creams and butters. Both options produce the same skin feel. 

The differences between the two include: 

-Polysorbate 80 is slightly better at solubilising vegetable oils, especially those with high amounts of unsaturated fats.

-Polysorbate 20 is mainly used in non-skin products, whereas Polysorbate 80 is used more in wash off skin products.

-Polysorbate 20 can be used to make surfactants more gentle.

-Polysorbate 20 will pull the pH of a formula towards the acidic end – something you should consider if you’re using geogard ultra as a preservative.

Essential oils are used in everything from soap to cosmetics and beyond for their lovely scents and skin-loving properties. Whether lavender, chamomile, sweet orange, or patchouli, you’re almost guaranteed to have come across these intense ingredients in one form or another. As commonly as they’re used in recipes, working with essential oils alone can be tricky, as they don’t mix well with water. This is where solubilisers come into play. When added to a small quantity of essential oil, these ingredients can help create a smooth and stable mixture - with no lumps or oil films to be seen.

When choosing a cosmetic solubilizer for your next creation, there are a few factors to keep in mind. Our experts recommend sticking to the following simple checklist in order to make the best possible choice:

Firstly, consider your recipe or formulation. Most solubilisers can dissolve completely in water with ease but are pickier with oils. Make sure you’ve got your concentrations in order, and have chosen the best possible match for your existing ingredient list.

Your final product should also be taken into account. Some solubilisers are brilliant in bath bombs, whilst others are best paired with fragrance sprays. Be sure to do your research!

It's also important to think about the consistency and feel of your final product. Different solubilisers can create different textures - meaning it’s important to select the right one for your ideal feel. 

Our experts recommend following all of the typical soap making guidance when using solubilisers for the best possible results, and for your own safety, as, when used improperly, they can be harsh on the skin. These include taking precautions against irritation to the skin and eyes - be sure to wear eye protection and gloves when handling any kind of solubiliser, in addition to patch testing prior to use. 

Another concern is that some solubilisers can be toxic if ingested. It's important to keep your solubilisers and other ingredients out of reach of children and pets, and, of course, to never ingest them yourself.

Finally, be sure to check the use-by dates on your solubilisers’ packaging. In order to ensure they last up until this date, store them in a cool, dry place to prevent spoilage and bacteria growth.

Solubilisation is a foundational principle in cosmetic science. At its core, it addresses the challenge of combining oil and water, two components that are inherently ‘unmixable’. Without effective solubilisation, many cosmetic formulations would lack the uniform consistency desired, resulting in separated mixtures that are neither aesthetically pleasing nor functionally effective.

Solubilisers play a critical role in ensuring that oils integrate seamlessly into aqueous solutions, be it toners, sprays, or other water-based products. This integration not only provides a consistent texture but also guarantees uniform delivery of active ingredients in every application – key to the success of any cosmetic product. 

Solubilisers and emulsifiers both play vital roles in cosmetic and toiletry creations, but serve distinct purposes.

Solubilisers are a great option for anyone looking to dissolve small amounts of oil-soluble ingredients into recipes made up mainly of water, resulting in clear solutions, and are the perfect choice for maintaining clarity in a formula. 

Emulsifiers, on the other hand, create stable mixtures of oil and water, producing emulsions that can range from opaque to creamy. This is achieved by reducing the surface tension between the oil and water phases.

In essence, while both are crucial for blending oil and water, solubilisers ensure clarity, whereas emulsifiers focus on stability and texture.