Collection: Surfactants

On a molecular level, cosmetic surfactants are made up of a hydrophilic (water-loving) head, and hydrophobic (water-fearing) tail. This unique combination is what gives these ingredients their unique cleansing and foaming characteristics. In addition, many surfactants feature different levels of charge - for example, anionic surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate create a lovely lather, while nonionic surfactants like glyceryl stearate are ultra-mild and great for emulsifying oils. Amphoteric surfactants like Cocamidopropyl betaine are the chameleons of the group, acting as both anionic and cationic surfactants, making them incredibly versatile. 

In terms of ingredient sources, many cosmetic surfactants are drawn from the natural world! Common derivatives include coconut oil, palm oil, and cornstarch - all of which are able to produce a gentle, mild end-product perfect for use in creations for the skin and hair. 

When it comes to surfactants, there are all-natural, synthetic, and a few ‘in-between’ options available to soap and cosmetic makers! 

Natural surfactants, as their name suggests, are derived entirely from plants, animals, or minerals with no extra processing involved in their production. Common examples in this category include coconut, palm, and castor oil - all of which are known for their gentle effects on the skin, and ability to contribute to lather (especially in soap)!

Synthetic options, on the other hand, are composed of chemical compounds. Some examples include Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). They’re known to be a little harsher than natural surfactants.

The Soapery also offers mostly natural options subject to minimal processing - such as SLSA - a derivative of coconut and palm oil. Though these options don’t quite meet our standards for 100% natural labelling, they’re made of natural ingredients at their core. The final product has simply been modified and purified to meet cosmetic industry standards and has the appropriate characteristics and pH to be used as a surfactant. 

Primary and secondary may share a name, but play distinct roles in everything from shampoo to soap creations. Primary surfactants, often referred to as 'main' or 'primary detergents', will do the vast majority of the work in your formula, being responsible for cleaning, cleansing, lathering, and in some contexts, emulsifying. They’re usually used in higher concentrations as a result. 

Secondary surfactants, also known as ‘co-surfactants’ support the functionality of primary surfactants. They’re commonly used to improve foam quality, increase mildness, aid in thickening, or modify the texture of a product. 

The interplay between primary and secondary surfactants allows for a fully functioning end-product. 

Doing some DIY bath and body crafting? We’ve got the tips and tricks you’ll need to perfect your products. 

Making shower gel foamy is a simple process - and, most of the time involves the use of a surfactant! In simple terms, these compounds lower the surface tension between liquids, allowing them to mix and create foam. They may be listed in your recipe in the form of SLS, SLSA, or even coconut oil - be sure to double-check! 

SLSA is one of our favourite foaming and lathering agents for shower gels thanks to its mildness. The general rule of thumb is to use around 1-2% of SLSA, based on the total weight of the recipe - however, be sure to check your guide’s exact requirements! If you’re experimenting with formulations, don’t overlook testing for skin irritation either. 

Beyond surfactants, there are some other shower gel recipe ingredients known to help stir up a nice lather including honey and glycerin! Why not experiment with different options to find the perfect recipe for your customers?

In general, surfactants are considered safe to use in cosmetics  - having undergone testing and usage by millions of people for decades. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, some people may be more sensitive or allergic to certain types or volumes of surfactant, meaning you should always work with care, and label your end-products correctly! 

There are many types of surfactants out there - each with different benefits, and varying effects on the skin when used in cosmetics, bath, and body products. For example, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), despite its effectiveness as an ingredient, is on the harsher side and is known to cause irritation to some people with sensitive skin, whilst SLSA, for example, provides a milder alternative.

If you’re getting deeper into the world of soap and cosmetics making, you may have come across recipes calling for the use of both a primary and secondary surfactant. But what’s the difference? Essentially, a primary surfactant is your main lathering and cleansing agent - it’ll take the lead in terms of the texture and performance of your final product. Examples of primary surfactants include sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and SLSA. 

A secondary surfactant, on the other hand, is the backup. It’s used in smaller quantities to enhance the performance of the primary surfactant - often contributing to the lather, stability, and moisturising properties of a formula. Some examples of secondary surfactants include Cocamidopropyl betaine and glyceryl laurate.

Although many synthetic surfactants can provide an excellent performance in terms of lathering, pH balance, texture, absorption, and more - they’ve also got a bit of a reputation for being harsh on the skin. If you’re in need of a gentle addition to your recipe, our experts recommend opting for a milder option, such as SLSA or SCI flakes (a plant derived choice), or going down the 100% natural route. 

Storing your surfactants correctly is key to unlocking their all-powerful bubbling and cleansing abilities! In order to keep your new purchases in tip-top condition, our experts recommend storing them in their original packaging until you're ready to use them. Once you've opened them, if you’re no longer able to use their original packaging, pop them in airtight containers, like glass or plastic bottles with tight-fitting lids. 

Once packaged and primed for next use, be sure to keep your surfactants in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. In addition to this, avoid storing them in damp or humid areas, as this can cause them to degrade more quickly. 

Some surfactants are also known to absorb strong odours - so be sure to steer clear of any essential or fragrance oils in order to maintain performance levels for as long as possible! 

SLSA is a popular choice for makers looking for foamy, floating bath bombs. It’s a safe, skin-friendly surfactant that helps create rich, luxurious foam when dissolved in water. 

Most bath bomb recipes will require you to mix SLSA with your dry ingredients (like baking soda and citric acid) before adding any oils or moisture. The proportion of SLSA needed can vary, but most use it in a smaller ratio compared to base ingredients.